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Tomaž Humar

tomaž humar, tomaž humar ali so našli telo
Tomaž Humar February 18, 1969 – c November 10, 2009, nicknamed Gozdni Joža akin to Hillbilly, was a Slovenian mountaineer A father of two, Humar lived in Kamnik, Slovenia He completed over 1500 ascents, and won a number of mountaineering and other awards, including the Piolet d'Or in 1996 for his Ama Dablam ascent

He became widely recognized in 1999 after his famous solo ascent of the south face of Dhaulagiri, considered one of the deadliest routes in the Himalayas with a 40% fatality rate

During a solo attempt to climb Nanga Parbat in 2005, Humar became trapped by avalanches and melting snow at an altitude of nearly 6000 meters After six days in a snow cave he was rescued by a Pakistan Army helicopter crew on August 10, 2005: Lieutenant Colonel Rashid Ulah Baig and Major Khalid Amir Rana

On October 28, 2007, Humar reached the Eastern summit of Annapurna I 8091 m via a route at the far eastern end of the South Face

On November 9, 2009, Humar, who was on a solo climb via the South Face of Langtang Lirung last climbed in 1995, had an accident during the descent His only contact with the base camp staff via a satellite phone was made on the day of the accident and he appeared to be in critical condition with leg, spine and rib injuries He was stuck on the mountain at an elevation of approximately 6,300 meters for several days before his body was found on November 14, 2009 at an elevation of 5,600 meters


  • 1 Prominent expeditions
  • 2 Bibliography
  • 3 Further reading
  • 4 References
  • 5 External links

Prominent expeditions

Langtang Lirung
  • 13 November 1994: Ganesh V 6770 m, in Ganesh Himal, new variation on SE face, with Stane Belak-Šrauf
  • 6 May 1995: Annapurna 8091 m, N face, French Route, solo climb the only traditional expedition in which he participated
  • 4 May 1996: Ama Dablam 6828 m, new route on NW face, with Vanja Furlan
  • 2 November 1996: Bobaye 6808 m, 1st ascent of the summit, NW face, new route "Golden Heart", solo climb
  • 1 October 1997: Lobuche East 6119 m, NE face, new route "Talking About Tsampa", with Janez Jeglič and Carlos Carsolio
  • 9-11 October 1997: Pumori 7165 m, SE face attempt of new route up to 6300 m - then after participation in rescue action at N reached the summit by normal route, with Janez Jeglič, Marjan Kovač
  • 31 October 1997: Nuptse West top NW, 7742 m, W face, new route, with Janez Jeglič who died during descent
  • 26 October 1998: El Capitan 2307 m Yosemite, route Reticent Wall A4-A5, 3rd solo climb 1st solo by non-American
  • 2 November 1999: Dhaulagiri 8167 m, new route on S face up to 8000 m, without reaching the top, solo climb
  • 26 October 2002: Shisha Pangma, 8046 m, with Maxut Zhumaiev, Denis Urubko, Aleksej Raspopov, Vassiliy Pivtsov
  • June 2003: Nanga Parbat 8125 m, his first attempt to climb Rupal S Face, up to ca 6000 m
  • 22 December 2003: Aconcagua 6960 m, S face, new route with Aleš Koželj
  • October 2004: Jannu 7711 m, E face, attempt solo up to 7000 m
  • 23 April 2005: Cholatse 6440 m, NE face 2nd ascent with new variation, with Aleš Koželj, Janko Oprešnik
  • Aug 2005: Nanga Parbat 8125 m, attempt to solo climb Rupal S Face, up to 7000 meters with famous helicopter rescue action - see main text above
  • October 2006: Baruntse 7129 m, W face of SE ridge, solo
  • 28 October 2007: Annapurna 8091 m, S face, new route, solo climb
  • ca 8 November 2009: Langtang Lirung 7227 m, S face solo attempt, died during descent


  • Tomaz Humar: Black Rock The Northwest Face of Bobaye "American Alpine Journal", Vol 1997, pp 17–18
  • Tomaz Humar: Nuptse West Face "American Alpine Journal", Vol 1998, pp 3–10
  • Tomaž Humar: Ni nemogočih poti Mobitel, Ljubljana 2001 ISBN 961-6403-23-0 COBISS 112438016 in Slovene, 207 pages
  • Tomaž Humar: No Impossible Ways transl Tamara Soban Mobitel, Ljubljana 2001 ISBN 961-6403-23-0, 104 pages

Further reading

  • Bernadette McDonald 2008 Tomaž Humar Hutchinson, London, UK ISBN 9780091795474


  1. ^ T K B, R K 14 November 2009 "Življenje Tomaža Humarja se je končalo na gori" in Slovenian RTV Slovenija Retrieved 25 November 2013 
  2. ^ "Ama Dablam, Tomaz Humar, Himalaya Extreme, ultimate climbing page" Dhaulagiriextremekanalcom Archived from the original on 2009-11-18 Retrieved 2009-11-14 
  3. ^ "Tomaz Humar Soloing on the South Face of Dhaulagirl" Rockclimbingcom 2002-10-19 Retrieved 2009-11-14 
  4. ^ "Nepal - Annapurnas, Dhaulagiri and Mustang area" Fotopediacom 2008-10-07 Retrieved 2009-11-14 
  5. ^ MacDonald, Dougald "Humar Trapped on Nanga Parbat" Climbingcom Retrieved 2009-11-14 
  6. ^ "Tomaz Humar Rescued from Nanga Parbat" Everestnewscom 2005 Retrieved 2009-11-14 
  7. ^ "Tomas Humar: New Alpine Solo Route on the South Face of Annapurna" Russianclimbcom October 2007 Retrieved 2009-11-14 
  8. ^ "Tomaz Humar klettert solo durch die Annapurna Südwand" Bergsteigenat 2007-11-22 Retrieved 2009-11-14 
  9. ^ "Langtang Lirung" SummitPost 2007-09-18 Archived from the original on May 17, 2008 Retrieved 2009-11-14 
  10. ^ "Tomaz Humar Stuck on Langtang Lirung with broken leg" wwweverestnewscom 
  11. ^ Manchanda, Sukhpreet 2007-08-19 "Slovenian climber dies in Himalayas" Topnewsin Retrieved 2009-11-14 

External links

  • Tomaž Humar website
  • Tomaž Humar website: Expeditions
  • National Geographic on incredible Nanga Parbat rescue
  • Tomaž Humar dies in Langtang Lirung
  • Tomaž Humar final rescue attempt
  • Tomaz Humar - Daily Telegraph obituary
  • Tomaz Humar Dies on Langtang Lirung - Climbing Magazine detailed obituary by Dougald MacDonald

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